Baan Lao
Thai · Richmond, BC · $$$$
Royal Thai, 18 courses, river views in Steveston.
A calm, elegant Steveston Village room where the chef-owner cooks royal Thai cuisine with precision, in an 18-course tasting menu with white-gloved service and tea, sake, wine and cocktail pairings.
Standout dishes: Thai chicken dumpling, spicy catfish tart with sour mango, coconut soup with truffle pearls, tiger prawns and lobster in tom yum
The reviewer values the detail and labour behind Nutcha Phanthoupheng's 18-course Royal Thai menu, which takes hours to prepare, in a fishing-village setting.
Standout dishes: chicken dumpling shaped like a chick, vermicelli with squid ink tuile and green curry velouté

